I guess you want to be super sure that you have every thing lined up exactly right before you apply the 2 sides to each other!

If I ever try the monopod idea it will more likely be via a belt hook mount screws approach? I appreciate that on your early Stick with its different hook location the situation is probably different.

Sacrificed a cheap tripod I found in the shop.

I’m thinking a 2”/5cm wide piece of 8 ga (.125”/3.175mm) aluminum plate that slips between the hook mount and the shaft of the Stick, secured by the hook mounting screws, and extending far enough (4”??) to provide an attachment point for the foot/monopod. If I decide I don’t want to keep the belt hook available, I can simply attach the plate using shorter screws to secure it. No modifications to the Stick at all. I can restore it to its original configuration (provided I don’t loose the belt hook! )

Not 100% sure this will work, but I’ll have zero invested other than a little shop time.

I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

My current project is a 2 X 12 speaker cabinet to complement my vintage $50 Peavey 400 Musician amp head. I couldn't decide whether to go with an open back or closed back cabinet. After viewing several YouTube videos, I've decided on a partial closed back with a 3" horizontal gap between the upper and lower rear panels. The cabinet has been assembled, except for the back.

I still have to install Tolex covering and 1.5" rubber feet. I only have red weave patterned Tolex, so I might order some black Tolex to match the Peavey amp head. This amp and Eminence speaker combination has zero floor noise and a sound pressure that can be felt throughout my body when I play the Chapman Stick with it. It's very cool!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wgBeFKj2c0

Nice compromise idea Steve. I'd been wondering about a wooden block, but a metal plate should be thin enough to allow the belt hook to stay in place.

As a wild thought I just took a quick look around (on-line) at cymbal arms & similar drum kit to see if I could spot anything long enough? As a drummer you'll be very aware how solid drum parts can be! So far I've not spotted anythng longer than an 18" cymbal arm - which I think could be more like 21" if the cymbal mount itself is seen as part of the monopod (most likely the bottom - where it would allow also allow 'foot' to be screwed on?)


Is the spec (pitch & diameter) of the standard screws a known thing?

Not that I know of. My guess is that they’re wood screws on my rosewood, and machine screws on the Railboard. I’d be tempted to do threaded inserts on the rosewood Stick which I did when I built my Telecaster. Wood screws aren’t really optimal for removal and replacement, but threaded inserts can be tough to get installed exactly where you want them. I’ll find out more when I do some disassembly to facilitate the construction.

Since, on a Stick with adjustable belt hook, two of them are designed to be removed & refitted I have the impression they'd be machine screws & think I've seen a picture somewhere?

Time passes while I search...

Yes. In the big SUSS topic, first post. Scroll down through the (many) pictures in this post & there are two that show the two long screws that hold the belt hook on. They are long & pass right through into the body of the Stick. Since the mount itself is still in place it's not clear if they screw into inserts or into predrilled holes in the hardwood body?

However, another search found this post, showing a Stick with the hook mount removed. Looks like the screws go direct into the wood.

The question of size is asked, but I didn''t noticed an answer, so I've added a query to the end of that topic.

SteveS I found another post where someome mentionsusing a 1/4" to 3/8" shim with the standard screws (for a different purpose), so they seem to have a good degree of leeway?

Still haven't done any disassembly, but yes, hardwoods can be drilled and tapped for machine screws (I've done it often myself) though it's unusual to see. OTOH, Emmett was just the kind of person to do that. They actually hold extremely well, particularly if it's a relatively coarse thread, like a 10-24. I saw an article a number of years ago (probably in Fine Woodworking magazine is my guess) where they actually did some testing and found that machine screws run into a threaded hole in wood hold so well that pull-out is almost impossible. FWIW, when I've tapped wood for machine screws, as in a jig or fixture where the screws will be removed and replaced repeatedly, I've soaked some CA glue into the threads to improve their wear characteristics. Chasing with the tap after the CA glue sets up and a dab of wax and they're very reliable.

I use one of these in my videography business. It splits the difference between a monopod and a tripod. It's not really free standing but it's a very stable version of a monopod. It may work pretty good for a Stick spike.
https://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-Alumin ... 73786&th=1

I'm not sure if that type of monopod would work on a Stick
but I'd be interested in seeing it work.

I have one of those monopods on my BlackMagic Cinema camera - Crane 3 LAB gimbal.


I'm in the process of building my own scaled down version of the ARRI Trinity.