Yes, I did read the FAQ section ( http://www.stickist.com/faq/doku.php?id=strings ), but I still have some serious problems. Is there maybe a video explanation (with close-up views!) on how to change strings especially on the Stick? I think this would be very helpful for beginners that didn't play any stringed instrument before (unlike me, I have to say... but it is long ago I restringed a guitar and somehow my remaining knowledge doesn't seem to apply anymore).

I think I'll first try to explain why it is a problem for me. I got myself a used Stick, polycarbonate, without a truss rod (see this thread: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7257 ). I know, a new instrument would have been better, but I couldn't handle it financially and really wanted to try a Stick. I wanted to lower the string action for each string individually, and the highest string broke. Then I looked closer and saw that all strings needed replacement. Yet I had no CS strings, but a new set of strings from another tapping instrument (to bridge the time till I order and receive some official Stick strings). Not knowing which gauge I had on the CS, I looked in the FAQ and saw the medium gauge thicknesses:



So then, luckily, I found a string set for my old tapping guitar. Sadly, the thicknesses didn't match exactly, so I ended up with theses thicknesses:



I struggled with the strings 1-5 and 10. So, here are my questions:

1. Obviously, I changed the string thickness a little bit and changed from classical tuning to matched reciprocal. After comparing the new strings to the old ones, I find that all strings are thicker (except for the lowest bass strings). Does it make a difference with the ease of tapping the string? I feel like it's harder to tap, even though I set the string height with the old strings almost correctly. I notice this especially with the 10th string.

2. How can you string the Stick without four hands? I have to admit, I'm not good at such things, but with this instrument I really have problems: For example, I'd have to hold the string end at the bridge with one hand (or it will come off), then drag the string with the other hand, use a third hand to hold the string windings at the tuning peg (so they don't come off) and a forth one to turn the mechanics to tighten the string. You see, I am completely lost. I would VERY MUCH appreciate a video explanation for the absolute beginners, since I must do something completely wrong.

3. How do you wire the string at the tuning peg? Is it different for the thicker strings than for the thinner ones? I know, this question is kind of embarassing. Do the windings go up or down?

Thanks for reading about my problems and I would very much appreciate some answers.

Greg has put out incredible videos on a lot of subject on the Stick…. This might be a really good video to make . Even after playing for years, I still do not have the confidence I would like when it comes to changing Strings…. So how about it? Anyone in the community feel like making a video on changing strings? I think it would be much appreciated and very useful.

There is a method that someone came up with that works really well, and it 's been posted on a thread already, but I can't remember the topic title. If I can find it I'll share it ASAP.
Later: Found it. It's the method you'll find if you go to the "Stick FAQ's" link found on the left side of the portal page.

Luc is right, the info in the FAQ section on strings is the way to go - exactly how I've been re-stringing my Stick.

I always change mine one at a time as it keeps the tuning better - I came to the Stick from the bass guitar where the tension on the neck is higher, and never took them all off at the same time.

One piece of kit that is a timesaver is a string winder. I have a Planet Waves Drill Bit peg winder that fits into my cordless screwdriver and I wouldn't want to change a string without it!

-Marc-

I started to make a video on this once, but it was very boring. I'll try again.

Emmett likes to clip off all the string at once, but I like to change mine one at a time.

The first time you restring, make it less overwhelming:

1. Unless you need to clean the fretboard, change your strings one at a time. This will help you avoid confusion, and you can put the old strings in the wrappers for the new ones to keep as a spare set, should you have any accidents.

2. starts with the 1st string (highest melody) and work your way across., tuning the new strings up to pitch as you go. this will keep tension on the board, and will keep the notes from fretting out as a result.

3. note that two outside position strings go on from the outside, and the rest go on from the inside.

4. make sure you can get at least two complete windings around the post.

5. Be super careful with the skinniest strings, they can get dented easily, and they won't ring true if they are dented.

6. if you make a string too short for the windings, you can always start over with it. It will have a kink between the nut and the tuners, but that doesn't matter.

Hope that helps.

Nico,
This ran from a previous post on strings- you might find it helpful. also remember the outer two strings (1 &10) wind from outside to in on both sides and opposite of the the "inner strings". Rather than link it, I copied it here.
Quote from Greg
"Dave Brosky made a cool device to help with determining string length past the windings, Dave?"

I'm here Greg! Emmett liked this device so much he asked me to make one for the shop!

Yes, in my former life, when I played guitar keeping it in tune often was usually due to not having enough string on the tuners. plus it really is frustrating cutting a string too short, or with a wound string too long and it spills over onto the tuner.

So I was reading Guitar Player where Larry Carlton was asked this question, and his reply was to always have three winds on the tuner. trial and error I came up with a set length for each string.

This DIY will put you out $1.02 (USD) for a piece of 44"" pine at Loews (they'll cut it too), a little P-touch or glue paste numbers #1-10,( for each string) and a few minutes will add up to a lifetime of enjoyment and removing the frustration and wasted time to allow you to play your Stick more!

here's the lengths ( I did this for my 10 string PolyCarb, no zero fret) you'll note 1 & 10, 8&9 , and 4&7 have the same lengths, the other variances are due to plain and roundwound strings.

Melody side
1 39"
2 40"
3 41 1/4"
4 41 1/2"
5 43

Bass Side
6 42 1/2"
7 41 1/2"
8 41"
9 41"
10 39"

Directions: Put the ball end of the string at the edge of the blank end, then cut the string in the middle of the number pasted. that easy, that's it!
it should look like this

-1----2---8-3-4-----6--5
10--------9----7----------

Using a Ernie Ball String winder or a Zap-It insert for an electric screwdriver (not a drill!!!) also helps get uniform windings and cut down on time. Change and enjoy!
hope it helps,
Dave Brosky

PS your PolyCarb has a truss rod, just not an ADJUSTABLE one. It can be retrofitted by SE.

That would be really cool. What must be boring to most of you, could be live-saving for the beginners.

I think I'll also give it a try. Now I have an idea how to do it without the aid of another person. I hope this works the way I imagine it!

I see that I typed my third question in a hurry and it wasn't at all clear what I meant. Sorry. Referring to this section in the FAQ:



, do you bring the loose end below the "lock" (i. e. toward the headstock) or above it? And what about the windings not of the loose end, but of the long piece of the string to get it tuned up? Does it go below or above the lock? And is this different for the thicker strings?

Is there any issue with cutting round wound strings before installing them? I thought I heard they should only be cut after being wound on the tuning peg so that there was no chance of the string windings coming undone. Maybe I was misinformed.

strings with round core can be a problem if cutting before installing. winding can unwind around the core if unlucky. Better to put string on before cutting. D´Addario most often use hex core instead of round core on their strings. Less problem to cut before putting strings on. if winding has unwinded/let go around the core it won´t sound good. Muddy/chorus sort of sound. I always cut after putting strings on.