I plan on restring my recently acquired graphite 10 string from the original light Classic to light Full Baritone, using a proper set of light FB strings just obtained from SE.

From experience changing my ironwood 10 string from light Classic to light Baritone Melody, I already expect to need to adjust intonation slightly on the melody side (lengthen 2, 3 & 5 somewhere in the order of a couple of mm, probably - achieved on the ironwood using 'shaved' screws).

Can anyone say if I should expect to need any intonation adjustments on the bass side too?

Any thing else?

PS. I figure that with the ironwood in BM and the graphite in FB I can then make a more educated choice between Classic 12 & RMR 12 when the Grand Railboard that's on order reaches the final stages of preparation.

Hi David,

You will want to copy the slide-block positions and string height for the strings on the melody side as indicated by the pitch.

D -> A
A -> E
E -> B
B -> F#
F# -> C#

It's a good idea to take a photo from above the bridge before you begin.

The bass strings are slightly thinner, which means they will ride lower in the V slots at bridge and nut, so you will need to raise the nut and bridge slightly, Also, shorten the vibrating length slightly at the slide-block for correct intonation.

Not a hard setup at all.

So replicate the slide block position of string 2 to string 1, 3 to 2, etc., just leaving string 5 as unknown, but for that I can take my clue from the 'shaved screw' change that applied for Classic to BM on 'unadjustable' #1642?

Neat. I'd not thought of it the changes in that way.


As I have an empty MIDI pickup channel just block side of the bridge, there should be enough room for me to take vernier gauge measurements as well as a photo. 'Belt & braces'.


Great advice. Thanks for your time & consideration Greg.

Always great advice from Greg! I concur on taking a picture of the bridge before making any adjustments. While I have not had to move from Baritone Melody to Full Baritone, I know that you will feel the biggest difference in the middle bass side strings.

I would recommend making the change over a 2 or even 3 hour period of time as you'll want to ensure you have taken the time to do it right the first time. If light strings are your preference, you may sense some of the upper registers in the left hand going sharp if you press too hard. This will be more apparent as the strings stretch and settle as they age.

Everything I have ever recorded is in Full Baritone, it was Emmett's preferred tuning too (Grace will say the same ), but that's not the reason I use it - it just feels right.

Thanks for the tips Gene. I don't plan on rushing. It may well take longert that 2-3 hours, if so that's fine.


They are all I've tried so far. They are the only option on my 'non-adjustable' 1985 Ironwood, and the new Stick arrived with light Classic, so I decided to stick with light for the re-string to FB.


I'm keen to try it for myself.

Half(?)way through the process now. Strings changed, initial changes to melody side bridge (as per Greg's suggestion), instrument tuned to pitch.

Somewhat rattly at this stage, but that's no surprise. I'm out of time now, but it seems like a good time to let it rest now before I start on the new set up anyway. Setup will need to include some truss rod adjustment as my new 'straight edge'[1] has revealed a slight bow.

Before doing the re-string I rewatched a video I found before I re-strung my Ironwood #1642 to BM. I noticed that the guy, Marty Furse, had some other videos too & wasn't on my links list so I've added him in the player section, and given the re-string videop an entry in the 'Other' section too.


[1] Just a stout 600mm stainless steel ruler, but I've lain it edge to edge with two other longer rulers, and with each I've flipped the ruler over & re-checked. Each time there was no visible gap, so pretty good I hope?