It took me quite a while to learn the fretboard on guitars, and am anticipating a bit of a learning curve with my Stick once I get it.

I noted Greg Howard using "violin tape" in his re-tuning video, but some research on this forum confirmed my experience that anodized aluminum as used on the Railboard presents problems with some self-adhesive stuff. It seems that automotive pin-striping paint works ok, but I ran across this post from a member who hasn't been around for a couple of years, and was wondering if this suggestion is worth trying. I know that "magic marker" removes with alcohol and a bit of elbow-grease, but these are something different, and whatever I do has to be reversible. I'm not concerned with getting it applied well. Being a luthier I'm used to working with magnifiers and doing very fine detailed work, so I know I can get it on neatly. I just know that a year or two down the road I won't need the markings anymore, and will want to remove them. Has anyone any experience with these markers?

Note that I'm not looking to go crazy with marking a whole bunch of rails, but grounding myself by marking the "C" and "G" notes at minimum would certainly help me get my bearings.

Thanks.

Subject: removing color/ anodizing from railboard frets and markers?

I think Avery type label dots will probably work ok. If they fall off every once in a while no big deal . I would at least try those until you find them unacceptable


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There is an instructor in tap guitar (Daniel Schell) who is an advocate of marking all C notes, with dots.

https://tapguitar.net/index.php/tunings/all-pages/

Good advice given that they're cheap.

Thanks, Mike.

I'd originally thought of all B-C and E-F locations, but that's over half of all diatonic values - that might be a bit much!

I figure I'll start with C, and add G if I need it.

If your stick is tuned in a standard tuning, you shouldn't need to add the G. The G is always one string to the left of the C.

Ah! Yes! Er....actually, isn't it always (when looking at it from the playing position) to the right of C? And F is always to the left. Maybe you're referring to it as you look at the FB from "FOH". Either way, yeah - I shouldn't need to mark either Gs or Fs.

In looking at the FB layout, the only other thing that might be helpful is maybe A as well, but I'll start with just C and see how it goes.

If you are looking at a fret board diagram, the G is to the left of the C


http://www.stick.com/instruments/tunings/10/bm/

Yup! We're on the same "page"

Friggin'BEADGooC!!